30 travel When in Cologne, do as the Cologners do If you are heading to IDS, do yourself a favour and plan at least a few hours outside of the Koelnmesse fairgrounds. After all, Cologne is one of Germany’s most superlative cities and is overfl owing with architecture, gastronomy, art and rambunctiousness. Read on for tips on how to enjoy Cologne like a local. © Guenter Albers/Shutterstock.com At nearly 2,000 of age, the former Roman city has not tired of bearing fruits, the long list of which includes the world’s tallest cathedral, an eponymous perfume marketed to men and a pioneering electronic mu- sic scene that dates back to the 1950s. Readers really should con- sider exploring this bastion of con- temporary German society, and a taste of what Cologne has to off er may leave you with a thirst for more. might have softened over time. Fortu- nately, the Deutsche Bahn’s assess- ment of the locks in 2015 concluded that they posed no structural danger to the bridge. A short ride west will bring you to the expansive, parklike Melaten cemetery, home to the remains of many notable Cologners—including Johann Maria Farina, who invented eau du cologne; Alfred Nourney, who survived the sinking of the Titanic; 1 Fig. 1: Cologne’s old town is full of contrasts and colour, all year round. Cologne by day The undisputable reference point of this city is the famous Cologne Ca- thedral, or Kölner Dom. The Catholic church took 632 years to build and is Germany’s most visited landmark. If you head inside, keep an eye out for Gerhard Richter’s brazen stained- glass window (they consist of 11,500 identically sized pieces of coloured glass) and try to imagine the church’s largest bell suspended high above you. Aff ectionately known as “Der dicke Pitter”, or “the Fat or Big Peter”, it weighs around 24,000 kg and is the world’s second largest freely swing- ing, ringable bell. The richness of its toll only rings out on special occa- sions, such as the death of a pope, and Christian celebrations. Like most locals, you may prefer to simply chill on the steps and watch the crowd, take a selfi e in front of the towering gothic façade and head off . Rest as- sured that Cologne has much more to off er! Just east of the cathedral is the Hohenzollern Bridge, whose pedes- trian pathway is bejewelled by an es- timated 500,000 love padlocks. A trip to IDS could be the perfect chance to tell that special someone just how you feel or to reaffi rm in steel what and Irmgard Keun, a writer whose books were burned by the Nazis but later celebrated for their portrayals of the lives of women. Not many Cologners take city tours, but doing so could help you get to know the town from a new, diff erent perspective. How about head- ing back to the cemetery for an inter- active mystery tour, discovering the hidden, hoppy laneways of the his- toric centre with a guided brewery tour, or exploring the queer side of town by taking an LGBQT+ tour? Perhaps you are more interested in obscure topics, like the role that mustard has played in the town or whether Cologners really are ob- sessed with chocolate. The town’s many speciality museums may an- swer these questions while posing many others. What better way to take a break from the show than by enjoying a piece of cake and a cup of coff ee? The vibrant Ehrenfeld district (north- west of the inner city) off ers a num- ber of good cafes in a relaxed and appealing atmosphere. Visit the cosy and slightly hidden Kaff eebud Ehren- feld to fi nd out what a “third wave” coff ee is, or delight in a creamy latte and authentic New York-style cheese- cake at cafecafe ehrenfeld, where the breakfast menu is also recom- mended. If you are longing for a holiday feel and fi nd yourself in the southern part of the inner city, enjoy small Spanish delicacies and an excellent cappuccino surrounded by surfboards hanging on the walls at Café Mansito (formerly Sabor ’ermoso). Cologne by night As the sun goes down, Cologne reawakens in a diff erent light, and so it is easy to enjoy the city once the trade fair halls close. Keep an eye out for the plentiful shisha bars and Büdchen, refreshment kiosks found on many street corners. Many locals will stop by one of them for drink, so why not join them? When it comes to bars, the trendy Zum scheuen Reh, located next to the Köln West train station, is perfect for start- ing the evening: get to know some Cologners while enjoying a couple of long drinks—non-alcoholic drinks are also plentiful—and the live music on off er in the bar’s outdoor area. Another idea would be to hit Bu- mann & SOHN, which is close to the Köln-Ehrenfeld train station. It is here that beer garden atmosphere meets urban industrial vibes and where the dynamic, alternative fl air of this dis- trict can be felt best. Coming early pays off ! Those who are looking for a home away from home might consider stumbling by die Wohngemeinschaft, which means “shared fl at”. This café, bar, theatre and hostel is located in the trendy Belgisches Viertel shop- ping district and arranged according to the tastes and whims of its four fi ctitious housemates. A drink on a retro barstool in this friendly estab- lishment may be just the ticket. If you are in the mood for danc- ing, you can spend the rest of the night in the northern part of Cologne between Ehrenfeld and Nippes, at the Odonien nightclub to be exact. Apart from concerts, plays, fl ea markets and open-air fi lm showings, at Odo- nien you can dance to predominantly electronic club music in the midst of obscure metal sculptures and impres- sive fi reworks. Arts and culture Cologne has a great deal to off er as far as arts and culture are con- cerned. Collections of famous Euro- pean paintings can be found in the cel- ebrated Museum Ludwig—this might be your thing; however, a few other exhibitions that are happening around town may prove to be more topical. On show at the Museum of Applied Arts is Blumen, Flowers, Fleurs, an exhibition of iridescent, larger-than- life woollen “paintings” by the Ger- man artist Susanna Taras. The artist plays with colour, scale and form and aims to fi nd a sense of poetry in the halls of art institutions. A hop, skip and a jump away is the city’s leading ethnological mu- seum, the Rautenstrauch-Joest Mu- seum, Cultures of the World. Fresher than its name might suggest, the museum is currently asking visitors what love has to do with colonialism. The exhibition LOVE? explores love and desire as experienced under the great hegemonies of our age: namely heteropatriarchy, colonialism and cap- italism. If you are up for a challenge during your time in Cologne, make it this exhibition. It could allow you to see your own local museum collec- tion in a new light. There are many, many more mu- seums of note in the city: Museum Schnütgen, the Wallraf-Richartz Mu- seum, the Museum for East Asian Art, just to name a few. Film buff s should pay a visit to the Filmforum NRW, and one of many other highlights of the city for cineas- tes is the ODEON, a cosy, retro-style movie theatre that shows art house productions. Food and drinks Whether you are interested in music, art or getting lost in the crowd, Cologne and its peculiarities are best explored with a full tummy. For quite some time now, an unoffi cial institu- tion of the city has been the falafel. Usually, it is freshly made with cori- ander or parsley (either Lebanese- or Syrian-style) and fried to perfection. In Cologne, these spicy chickpea balls taste like nowhere else in Germany— preferably with a giant spoonful of tahini. Try it yourself: take a stroll down Venloer Street in Ehrenfeld and see for how long you can resist the smell of the various oriental bistros and cafes. Arguably the best falafel can be found at the three eateries Vegan Food Revolution, Habibi and Beirut. The fi rst is known for its doughnut-shaped falafel and the last boasts a beautiful view over the Rhine. If your tastes are more carnivo- rous, however, then you should pay Karl Hermann’s a visit. Also located on Venloer Street, it serves high-qual- ity burgers with freshly minced and succulently grilled meat patties—free from antibiotics—in a fl uff y brioche bun. If you still have some room left afterwards, you can hit Frittenwerk Köln for some delicious homemade fries. Enjoy fries made from regular or sweet potatoes with chive and cheese topping. Whatever you choose, make sure to also try the lemon aioli and the guacamole. Naturally, these large amounts of salt need to be counteracted some- how, which is why a visit to one of the Kölsch-serving traditional restau- rants is a necessity. Enjoy a chilled Kölsch beer like a true local at Bier- haus en d’r Salzgass or Weinhaus Vogel, where not only is simple, au- thentic Cologne food served, but the spirit of the city can be experienced. Find out more about the places mentioned in this article by typing their names in Google or Tripadvisor. All details were current at the time of writing in late January. 2 Fig. 2: Just east of the cathedral is the Hohenzollern Bridge, which survived allied bombing raids during World War II and is now bejewelled by an estimated 500,000 love padlocks. SHOW PREVIEW 40th International Dental Show 2023